In celebration of Father Vincent

Today was passed through a small village called O Cebreiro. Apart from being the highest point on this leg of our journey ( at 1290m asl – it’s all downhill from here!) this is first village we come to since entering Galicia, which we did this morning. However, it’s real significance is that the church here contains the grave of Father Vincent (not his full name!). Thishumble parish priest from this region is credited with regenerating interest and enthusism for the walk as a pilgrimage. In the 1980’s, as the story goes, he went to the government to try and get supportf for the camino and they gave him some left over paint from roadmarking. It was yellow. With that, he decided to paint yellow arrows to direct the pilgrims onto the correct paths. Today the yellow arrows are what we all look for, and start to get concerned if we don’t see them for a while (as we did today!).

The story goes that the good Father recruited his nephew (aged 10 at the time) and they would spend their weekends painting yellow arrows approximately every 1000 paces. Once he was stopped by a couple of policemen. They demanded to see in his van and he showed them the cans of yellow paint. They asked why he was painting yellow arrows, and it is reputed that he replied, “I am preparing for an invasion!”

In 2012, about 200,000 pilgrims turned up at Santiago. This year, we have been amazed at the number of people on the road. Tonight, we are in an albergue with a capacity of 80 pilgrims, and it must be half full. A month ago, we were at Roncevalles and the place there had a capacity of 210, and it was turning people away by 7:30pm. It is rare that we are on the road by ourselves. Usually, there are peope just in front, or just behind us. The invasion has certainly happened!

The work the Father started has been carried on by many others. Sgns aee now more tgan just a yellow arrow painted on the road or the side of a building. There are road signs, scallop shells in brass and concrete, concrete mile posts …. a variety of methods. In general, the signage which was excellent in the east (Navarra area) is getting harder to find as we move west. Some cities are a nightmare to get out from – though often easy to get into! Leon was the best of the big cities, with Pamplona a close second. Burgos was difficult to get into and get out of! But that is the challenge or at keast part of it.

I have to say that the Spansh locals are really good. Several times we have been shown the way by someone who just sees us looking around for a sign. Twice now, people have walked with us to show us the places we have been looking for. Though once a couple of older gentlemen mistook what we were asking for and insisted on showing us the way out of the city, when we really wanted to go the other way!

They were so concerned that we were lost that they followed us for a couple of blocks to make sure we were going the “right”way!

Alan,

Fonfria, Spain (1150m asl.)