The ending and a beginning ….

Our camino has ended, and here we are outside the cathedral in Santiago. But one of the philosophies about the camino is that once the walking bit is over, the true camino starts. We both need to reflect on just what that means for us both, but one of the key thingsis that this experience is changing for all of us.

We have spent the last three days just blobbing out, being tourists for a while and catching up with friends as we see them here in the city. We have been to Finisterre, which is a sort of ritual most pilgrims undertake. The custom used to be tat you burnt your clothing out there, at what was at one stage thought to be the end of the world. These days that practice is discouraged, though there is plenty of evidence to say it still happens. These Kiwi pilgrims contented themselves with each throwing into the sea a piece of greenstone that had travelled from home and had been with us throughout the walk.

It is with mixed feelings that we sit here in this lovely city. The daily routine of the pilgrim is slowly leaving us,though with others around us still imbued with getting up early, it is difficult to have a sleep in! But it is a great pleasure for us to meet with many of our new friends as they finish and as they leave this city to head home or to new adventures.

To Amigo Alan -thanks for your reply. We will go back to the Post Office on Friday before we leave and see if they can find anything.

We will be going to Pontevedra on Friday to meet with Anna. Our plan is then to be back in Bilbao by Tuesday evening and then on to Barcelona and then home.

Alan,

Santiago, Spain.

Alan and Gay outside the cathedral at Santiago.

Special message for Amigo Alan

Alan,

You sent us a message about a letter you sent to us. Unfortunately, I did not keep the details of that and am wondering if you can resend the details of how it was addressed and when it was sent please, either as a reply to this post or as an email. Both are being monitored.

We have been to the post office but they cannot find anything for us.

We will be in Santiago until Friday morning and so have time yet.

We went out to Finisterre yesterday and enjoyed a thoroughly good trip. Today we are sightseeing in the city.

Alan

Santiago, Spain.

Dateline Santiago.

This is a brief post to say that we made it! We arrved in Santiago about 1pm today and have already met several friends from the journey. We have received our Compestela and have that secure. It says 775km!

But the look on the faces in the photo say it all.

Will write more later, but right now we are on a high.

Alan

Santiago, 775km from St Jean Pied du Port.

Ultreia

In an earlier blog I wrote about the greetings that are used on the camino. Most frequently pilgrims passing each other or leaving a gathering point will say, “Buen camino” to each other and will respond with the same greeting. That means literally “Good walk”.

Last night we learned about a new greeting, that is fact very old. Apparently in medieval times, a pilgrim would say,”Ultreia”. And the response would be, “Et suseio”.  “Ultreia” means “onward” and “et suseio” means “and upward.”

All this came together for us yesterday. Several days ago a charming Canadian lady called Fran, quite out of the blue, gave us two fabric patches with “Ultreia” embroided on them, and then yesterday as we walked into Azrua, tired and hot, we stopped at the first albergue we found, and it was called “Ultreia”. They had spaces for us and so we booked in. It is a new place, open only a few years but very comfortable and well set up. We had a very comfortable night there. All these factors prompted us to do some research and we learnt some new stuff. We then tied it in with some comments made by some nuns about a fortnight ago!

Gay and I then used that new/old greeting today and had the chance to explain it to some others!

As with the common modern greeting used today, the ancient greeting carries a deeper meaning than the mere literal translation. It embodies the best wishes to the fellow pilgrim of a safe physical journey as well as successful, safe and enduing spiritual journey. It therefore carries with it the strong implication that the pilgrimage is a way of focussing on spiritual things, in whatever way each individual conceives that to be. It  is sort of appropriate that we think of that greeting in this latter stage of the journey, when it is said that pilgrims have got past the physical and mental challenges and take on the spiritual.

On a completely different note, I want to include a picture that relates to yesterday’s message. Gay and I ordered grilled octopus tonight – a different dish from yesterday, but just as appetising!

Alan,

O Pedrous

Served at dinner in O Pedrousa.

a, Spain.

18km from Santiago.

When in Spain ….

We had been told that when we get to Galicia we would have to try the local seafood delicacies. And the capital for sea food was Melide!

We arrived in Melide just after 10 this morning, and although it was a little early for lunch, we did stop at the cafe we had been told was the mecca for pilgrims and locals alike. They were just opening up for the day, and as we walked in we came past the cooking area and there in a large pot boiling over a gas flame was an octopus. That was it – the local delicacy!

Being a tad cautious, we ordered one serving, thinking that if it was too terrible, we wouldn’t waste too much. We watched as our meal was prepared. It seemed quite easy. Just grab a tenticle and cut it into bite sized chunks using a pair of large scissors! Serve on a wooden platter, sprinkle with olive oil and paprika, put in some toothpicks and bring it to the table!

Of course, nothing is served without the basket of bread and the bottle of wine. To our delight, the octopus tasted lovely and the plate was soon empty! We left the cafe some 40 minutes later having eaten octopus and consumed (between us) nearly a full bottle of wine -and all before 11:15 in the morning! I have to say we thoroughly enjoyed it and continued our walk in a very happy frame of mind!

But there is nothing like a walk with a pack to bring you back to earth!

At dinner last night we also had local delicacies. That was at Casa Domingo (thanks to Amigo Alan!) where we were treated to seven different dishes, including Galician vegetable soup, Galician cremed squash soup, grilled capsicum, pork pieces and Santigo cake. We have been treated really well in thefooddepartment all through thetrip, buttodaywas a bit special.

I don’t have a photo on the tablet of the octopus. That will have to wait  until we get home. But I do have a photo of the squid we  had for tea tonight. Not octopus, but almost the same!

Alan,

Arzua, Spain.

38km from Santiago. Thursday 23rd October.

An off the track visit.

Old frescoes which are being uncovered.

Today we did an extra 5 km to take in a recommended sight, and at this end of the day, we have to say that it was well worth the time and extra distance.

Unfortunately, I don’t think the photos do it justice.

We left the official track at about 9:30am and walked along a country road, hoping that we would be able to see in the church. There was no-one around in the village we had just passed to ask about opening times, so we went on trust.

For most of the way, we saw no-one. But as we came close, a Spanish lady walked passed us and we asked her. She told us there was a man there and the church was open.

We arrived and the gentleman gave us an extensive tour of the church, explaining its history. It has links to the Celts, especially the Irish and there were Celtic images in the stone work in some of the internal columns. Behind thealtar there is an extensive area of fresco work, which had covered over, but is being restored and it is lovely. There is a central image of Christ and other large images of St Peter, St Paul and St Patrick. There is also a large image of Mary, unusual in that she is shown as being pregnant.

In other parts of the church, there are effigies of knights, carved in stone. There are other carvings as well, and the main door way was a treasure trove of intricate design.

The church dates from the 13th century and the frescoes from the 14th century. The gentleman who showed us around only spoke Spanish, but we could pick out lots of what he was telling us. He told us he was a volunteer and was 87 and a half years old! He had been waiting there to talk to visitors and we turned up! We spent nearly 45 minutes there and as we left other pilgrim friends of ours arrived too.

The experience of being in the church was awesome and felt truly blessed by that visit.

Alan

Ponte Campaña, Spain

61km to Santiago.

Dateline Tuesday 21st.

There are many things I would like to write about, but key among them are the people we meet on this journey.

I think I have referred to this before, but the people we meet is one of the key things about this pilgrimage. Right now, there are more people than ever on the trail, and I will write about that in the next blog or two. But right now I want to say that this photo was taken today at a place called Vendas de Norán. There is almost nothing here –  two albergues, two cafes and a few farms. But once this was the site of a major battle between Moors and Christian Galicians. It is a fact that this NW corner of Spain was never subdued by the Moors, something that is attributed to the ferocity of the Galicians.

So different today!

We deliberately had a short day today and arrived here at midday after walking 13km. We then spent the afternoon in delightful tranquility, watching pilgrims go past, listening to the pastoral sounds of the country (and smelling the smells!), but also catching up with camino friends. All are special, and Pat and Jean happened to be there when we wanted a photo. Pat and Jean are from Florida, and we also saw Gloria (Seattle), Howard and Carol (Brisbane), Barbara (Zimbabwe), Martin and Jane (English, living in France), Kathy and Helley (Canada) and Tom (Denmark?) and Anje  (?).

In addition, the staff at the albergue and cafe are very friendly and helpful – not all fierce like their forebears!

Tomorrow we leave early for a longish walk, hoping to do a short side trip to see a recommended historic sight.

Alan,

Vendas de Norán, Spain.

Gay and Alan with Pat and Jean, camino friends from Florida.

Ancient history and modern times.

Tonight, after completing a difficult 22km walk from Sarria, Gay and I sat in a restaurant high above the River Mino. Earlier, in the middle of a hot afternoon, we had walked across a very high bridge into the town, spotting below us an older bridge.  From the restaurant, we had a glorious view right down this wide, slowly flowing river towards the setting sun. We looked at the information superimposed on a photo of the town and its impressive bridge and deciphered as much of the Spanish as we could. Later, a very obilging waitress filled in on more recent details.

It transpires that the Romans first bridged the river here and then later the Knights of the Order of St Juan (John) of Jerusalem established a hospital for pilgrims here and then the Codex Compestela de Santiago (sort of rules for the pilgrimage) decreed that there must be a bridge here to enable the pilgrims to get to Santiago. The town of Portomarin developed at this crossing point, as they did in those days, and developed at both ends of the bridge. One was called San Nicholas and the San Juan. The first town records go back to 922 apparently. The hospital developed in the tenth century and continued into the 12th century.

Fast forward to 1960. In the interests of modern commerce and industry, General Franco ordered that a dam be built to create a lake, the water from which would generate much needed electricity. Problem – the new lake would flood the old town! Solution? Move the town!

In the end, they moved all the important buildings – church included (of course!) and rebuilt them on the site of the present town, high above the river and lake. They did that by moving those buildings, brick by brick!

Apparently, in times of low water, you can still see the streets and remains of buildings of te old town. In the years immediately after the dam was finished, the people here used to visit the old town when they could. This was considered dangerous and in order to stop it happening, the authorities destroyed all the buildings that were not moved. But the remains can still be seen when the water is very low.

Today, all we could see were the remains of bridge abutements, a complete bridge below the present one and a number of channels created to enhance the catching of eels – local industry! We could also detect the high point of the lake level and the very green grass in the areas which will be flooded in winter times.

I regret I have no photos to enhance this post. They will have to wait until we get home. But this story reflects much of our experience here. We are constantly being confronted with the old, the very old and the ancient, all wrapped up in a covering of modernity. A simple example is the latest John Deer tractor parked in a shed made of mud and straw, with timber framing that shows through, and with a door that is hanging off very old hinges! It is wonderful!

Alan,

Portomarin, Spain. 90km from Santiago!

In celebration of Father Vincent

Today was passed through a small village called O Cebreiro. Apart from being the highest point on this leg of our journey ( at 1290m asl – it’s all downhill from here!) this is first village we come to since entering Galicia, which we did this morning. However, it’s real significance is that the church here contains the grave of Father Vincent (not his full name!). Thishumble parish priest from this region is credited with regenerating interest and enthusism for the walk as a pilgrimage. In the 1980’s, as the story goes, he went to the government to try and get supportf for the camino and they gave him some left over paint from roadmarking. It was yellow. With that, he decided to paint yellow arrows to direct the pilgrims onto the correct paths. Today the yellow arrows are what we all look for, and start to get concerned if we don’t see them for a while (as we did today!).

The story goes that the good Father recruited his nephew (aged 10 at the time) and they would spend their weekends painting yellow arrows approximately every 1000 paces. Once he was stopped by a couple of policemen. They demanded to see in his van and he showed them the cans of yellow paint. They asked why he was painting yellow arrows, and it is reputed that he replied, “I am preparing for an invasion!”

In 2012, about 200,000 pilgrims turned up at Santiago. This year, we have been amazed at the number of people on the road. Tonight, we are in an albergue with a capacity of 80 pilgrims, and it must be half full. A month ago, we were at Roncevalles and the place there had a capacity of 210, and it was turning people away by 7:30pm. It is rare that we are on the road by ourselves. Usually, there are peope just in front, or just behind us. The invasion has certainly happened!

The work the Father started has been carried on by many others. Sgns aee now more tgan just a yellow arrow painted on the road or the side of a building. There are road signs, scallop shells in brass and concrete, concrete mile posts …. a variety of methods. In general, the signage which was excellent in the east (Navarra area) is getting harder to find as we move west. Some cities are a nightmare to get out from – though often easy to get into! Leon was the best of the big cities, with Pamplona a close second. Burgos was difficult to get into and get out of! But that is the challenge or at keast part of it.

I have to say that the Spansh locals are really good. Several times we have been shown the way by someone who just sees us looking around for a sign. Twice now, people have walked with us to show us the places we have been looking for. Though once a couple of older gentlemen mistook what we were asking for and insisted on showing us the way out of the city, when we really wanted to go the other way!

They were so concerned that we were lost that they followed us for a couple of blocks to make sure we were going the “right”way!

Alan,

Fonfria, Spain (1150m asl.)

Dateline Monday 13th

Today we can afford something of a celebration. Just one month go, we started out on this journey from St Jean Pied de Port, France. In that month, we have walked for all but two days, we have covered 546 km and have climbed to 1530m asl. We have been in a different village, town or city nearly every night. We have been hot, cold, wet and blown inside out. We have been tired, elated, excited and depressed, sometimes all at once!

Looking ahead, we have about 14 days to go, one mountain range to cross and rainy Galacia to traverse. But it is very much a feeling that the is in sight. We hope and pray that the light we can see at the end of this tunnel is not a train coming the other way!

But we do feel as though it is a celebration. We have seen some amazing things, ranging from the small snake getting off the path in front of me, through the amazing range of flowers and colourful plants and insects, to the amazing colours of sunsets and sunrises without number.

We have attended services in large churches and small chapels and have had a glimpse at some of the treasures the church owns. We have shared with the local people in their worship and have attended services just for pilgrims. We have been part of religious communities, although in only a very small way.

We have met amazing people, from Canada, Ireland, Denmark, USA, Korea, France, Germany, Holland, Australia …  Many of these people come into our lives and move out again quickly as they or we move on. Others stay together for a few days before moving on and still others we meet several times, days apart.  Still others we met in the signs left behind -a named rock, a message in an albergue book, or a signature in a church visitors book.

Each of these people have their own story as we have ours. Sometimes we are privileged to hear these stories and to share our own.

Above all, the camino is a challenge. It is a physical one of course, but it is a spiritual one too. One of the challenges is to see in our fellow pilgrim a child of God and to learn from each other as we continue this journey to Santiago and to a deeper understanding of God.

Finally the challenge is to take our learnings back with us to our life after the camino.

Alan,

El Acebo, Spain.

13 October, 2014.

At Cruce de Ferro in the fog! Highest point of the journey.