Those valleys of Wales.

We ventured into Wales twice. The first time was into Northern Wales to follow a part of Gay’s family. Success attended that part of the trip as we were able to visit the village where a great grandfather lived. We stopped at the pub there and had a drink but the dramatic nostalgia was taken away when we found out that this particular building was not as old as we had hoped and there was no way that he would have ever had a drink there!

 But apart from the really narrow lanes and the exciting encounter there with a large truck, a highlight was simply the scenery. In north Wales we came across was claimed to be the highest village in Wales. We have no reason to doubt the sign and certainly the views from the parking place were stunning. The journey from there down the valley was through thick bush clad hills and was very reminescent of many parts of NZ.

We met similar areas of what they call here “areas of natural beauty” (or AONB for short) when we travelled into south Wales to stay with a long-time friend. Here we were treated to one such view from the bedroom window as we gazed across the valley to the town across from us. Later on that day as we travelled through the area known as Brecon Beacons to see an outstanding military museum, and again as we stood  at the top of a castle and looked out over Cardiff, we were able to enjoy more AONB!

Then again, on a much smaller scale, we enjoyed a close look at an allotment, where Mark had put of lot of work into creating a display of flowers and vegetables that would make anyone proud. Anoother AONB!

See what you think when you see these pictures.

Alan

 

Linda Special

This is a quick note especially for Linda of Tuakau. Linda was raised in Ramsgate in her early years (just a few years ago!) and we thought it would be fun to find the street.

We did, but I thiink there may have been some changes since you were here last, Linda!

We think your original abode has been knocked down. Have look at these photos and see what you think. We have more photos to show yoj when we get home.

Alan and Gay.

Churches and worship

Following on from my last message, I am not advocating that we in Onewhero should move to  have a full time choir. It would be great to gave the current community choir support some of the services, or present something as an aspectof worship occasionally.  I do think that the congregation as a whole can learn parts of a choral eucharist as a project  which could help to enrich our worship and create variety.

However, I have also been interested to observe how different groups have responded to the more modern moves with regard to worship, and in particular the thoughts about inclusiveness. Traditionally, churches and especially Anglican ones, have been built in the shape of a cross. The point at which the horizontal arms meet the vertical part is called the crossing and some churches have built their tower or spire above that part, but others have put the tower at one end – often the west end. Salisbury cathedral has two crossings and so the whole building makes a sort of Cross of Lorraine.

The point here is that the area east of the crossing has often been separated physically from the rest of the church (the nave) and this has also been a separation of clergy and people. At the point of climax in the service, the clergy would go up to the high altar and the rest of the service would be conducted from there. There is a strong remnant of that still in many NZ churches too, though there are many moves to soften or eliminate that separation.

When you have a large church, like a cathedral, built in that traditional form, it becomes difficult to bring about the change for inclusiveness. I guess that is one reason why I felt uncomfortable in the Liverpool Cathedral. Here is a church that was started in 1902, but clearly made a choice to stick with the tradition. I guess back in 1902, there wasn’t as much forward thinking or challenge to the established way of doing things. But the Roman Catholic Cathedral in the same city seized the opportunity and created a circular building. One church we went to in the centre of London had created an almost circular space in the old rectangular building. Their altar was massive and had been installed in the 1970’s. The much more modern church in Barleston had also done well in creating inclusiveness. They have had to vacant their much older building whenit was deemed unsafe due to subsidence.

We were in a church in Arundel yesterday where they had a traditional shape but had created a feeling of inclusiveness by widening the nave by including the side aisles and then creating a new altar at the old crossing, while retaining the high altar in its traditional place.

We were too late for a service here but the feeling was positive.

The church at Whitby remains the most unusual I have ever encountered. It had a three tier pulpit and the nave was full of boxed pews some of which faced the front while others were side on. In addition there was a mezzanine balcony which went from the crossing and went down both arms of the cross and right around the nave. That meant you would have some people facing each other across the church, half of whom would have their backs to the action. In this church there was quite a strong feeling of “them and us” with the placement of a screen between chancel and nave.

It was suggested that the 1858 removal of the screen, made of stone, in Chichester Cathedral was what caused the spire to collapse. It is noticeable that there is still a screen there. In Salibury Cathedral, an early edict instructed that the Pascal candle, when used in the choir or chancel area, had to be seen by the congregation. Because of the screen at that time, that meant the candle had to be 32ft high!

We have had a whole variety of experiences here, and the opportunity to learn at every turn. As we approach the end of our English leg of our pilgrimage, we look forward to extending these experiences throughout Europe.

Alan and Gay.

 

Of cathedrals,choirs and churches.

In our time away we have had the privilege of visiting places of worship from the largest cathedral in the UK to some of the smallest churches in the smallest and out of the way places. Many of our visits have been to places of worship during the week when we were the only ones there, but we have also had the pleasure of attending services with dozens of others. 

A privilege we have had is attending services where choirs are involved. In all the services we have attended, there has been a choir – something that is rare in our part of the world. We went to alocal church nearFalmouthlastSunday.  We had looked on the internet to find achurch andhadtgree to choose from. We opted for the closest both in time and distance and ended up driving along a very narrow country lane thinkinng we had some how missed a corner or a sign, when all of a sudden there was the church.  We were running about 5 minutes late but couldn’t creep in un-noticed as the heavy door creaked as we gently pushed it open. But there was a choir! True, it was just three in number, but choir it was, and what it may have lacked in numbers, it made up in sound! They were clear, positive and provided great leadership.

The folk at that church were really interested in our story and our journey and made us feel very welcome.  We had the privilege of attending a special service at Lichfield cathedral where the Bishop was installing a priest in a new role with the Diocese. That was a full sung Evensong service with the choir doing all the psalms for the day and an anthem, as well as supporting the responses. Because the choir was so involved, I started feeling as though I was an observer rather than a participant. But as the service progressed, I felt myself relaxing and absorbing the words and the atmosphere and I found myself worshipping God in a new way. I had a similar feeling when we were at Salisbury cathedral this week, and we were able to attend the evening choral eucharist.

Earlier, when we were staying with Margaret and Denis, we attended church with them -twice on the same day! At both services, there was a choir. At the morning eucharist, the choir was smaller than in the evening service, but both times, the choir helped to make the service really special. Also special was seeing the choir and clergy process in and out!

At the service at Lichfield, we were also treated to the full ceremonial withe vergers as well. We also had that to a lesser degree at Salisbury.

I have to say that Iam struggling a bit with the size of the cathedrals. It is the height that is a mite overpowering. I have felt that at Chichester, Norwich, Durham, Lichfield, Coventry, Salisbury and mostly at Liverpool. Chichester and to a lesser extent Salisbury have suffered for that height. Chichester’s tower fell down in 1861 and Salisbury’s pillars started to bend undr the weight -some 6500 tons of it! In Salisbury, they reinforced the walls and pillars before anything disastrous happened, but it is fascinating to look up and see the bend in the stonework!

But the height of the nave in these buildings is taking some getting used to. I have to say that I have felt the least like being in a worshipful place when I was in the Liverpool cathedral. It is almost the newest (except Coventry) having been built entirely in the 20th Century 1902 to 1978. But it’s sheer size is somehow obscene in a way that the other big buildings of Durham, or Norwich or Lichfield are not. I have to confess thatI felt much more comfortable in the Catholic cathedral in Liverpool than I did in the Anglican one. Both built in the 20th Century, and the Catholic one having more apparent ongoing construction issues, but somehow the church fathers there have done something right. It was impressive, not for its size, but for the atmosphere of worship that they have achieved, despite the sightseers and the folk setting up for the concert that (Saturday) evening.

More about this later. Today was spent in Chichester – a lovely town – and tomorrow we head for Ramsgate.

Alan

 

 

The blog I write when I’m not writing a blog!

Tonight I am not writing a full blog. Gay and I are totally gobsmacked, as are most of the world, at the news of the unacceptable loss of an international airliner. We cannot comprehend the deliberate criminal actions of these perpetrators.

Today we spent some time in Chichester cathedral and tonight I intend to spend my time in prayer for the families and for the investigation, out of respect for the families. I just feel it is a more appropriate use of the evening.

Alan.

 

Cornwall Heritage.

The miner in the centre of town.

I am leaping ahead chronologically in this narrative, but I do have a reason, which may or may not become clear as I progress the story!
When we planned this trip, there was always the intention to get to Cornwall, which is where my grandfathr lived the first 21 years of his life. The intention was clear – to meet up with family and to try and answer some questions. But it was also the thought that I wanted to experience Cornwall. We were here 38 years ago, but I can remember little of that. I know we met with two aged great aunts, and other much less aged cousins, but beyond that,not much has been retained. So it was going to be the chance to refresh those times.

Well, we achieved the first objective by meeting up with two cousins (strictly speaking, second or third cousins, but who cares – this is family!) and we were treated really well both in Stoke and in Falmouth, and enjoyed good food, great conversations and great tours of the area.

The second objective was not achieved at all well. We visited the areas where the family lived only to be turned back by a very static traffic jam. The road had turned into a parking lot with the things moving were cars going in the opposite direction! Reluctantly, we joined them and so missed a visit to Mullion and Cury areas. Later in the day we did enjoy a walk in Camborne, including a look at the Vyvian Arms Hotel (from the outside – it was the name that was interesting!) And to look at an old winding engine, as was used to pump water from the tin mines of the area.
We went to Gwennap and visited the Pit (more on that later!) But missed finding the graves that we had found 38 years ago. And missed finding the house – Merry Meeting, but did find the graves of the people who had owned it back in 1976 and who allowed us to visit.

Today we were not able to go the the Records Office in Truro as there were no spare spaces, but did get to the Cornish Studies Library where lots of family history stuff is kept. However, our 4 hours there unfortunately provided us with more questons than answers.

In the nearly three full days in the land of my forefathers, we drove down some very narrow lanes, drove around and around in the search for clues, got caught in two traffic jams, rescuing ourselves once and being led to salvation by a good samaritan in a souped up Escort in the other! We experienced church in a really remote little church where there was no village but a small but enthusiastic choir and were made very welcome. I enjoyed eating Cornish pasties made by Rowe’s Bakery (even if they had the seam at the bottom) and a real Ploughman’s lunch, complete with a large, thick wedge of cheese and thick slices of ham. I did give the pickled onions to Gay!

The centre of Redruth is beautiful and I have included two photos. One is of the main street, turned into pedestrian mall and the other is of the statue of the miner – a tribute to the history of this area.
Please note the sunshine which continues to bless us. We have had only light rain and then only on two days. Our progress report is that we are in Salisbury tonight, having driven over 1800 miles so far. It is Day 31 and we have just over a week left in England. Tomorrow we visit the cathedral here, which stands out across the countryside – one cannot miss the sight of that tall spire! Then we head on into more family stuff before getting back to London.

Date line July 11. Saxon history.

For my second entry today, i wanted to share a couple different visits we have made. When we were in Stoke-on-Trent, we went with Cousin Margaret and Denis to the Stoke Museum. Several years ago a discovery was made in a farm field of a large collection of gold pieces. These have been identified as coming from Saxon times and are mainly small items of decoration and ornament. This now known as the Saxon Hoard and it has been put on display.  There are some 4000 individual pieces. Currently most pieces are on display in Birmingham but we did get to see over 150 of the ones still in Stoke.

The pieces msy be small, but is the very smallness that makes them fascinating. Many of the pieces show very careful and intricate decoration in them with patterns and shapes along the edges and surfaces of the pieces. It is creating quite a stir as it reveals more about the culture of the Saxons than we had known before. There were pieces where slivers of garnet had been inserted into the gold. Just how that was achieved back in 630AD is what is causing the excitement right now.

The photo I have added is of the model of the Saxon warrior in the foyer of the museum.

The second visit was just yesterday. This was to castle in Wales called Castle Coch, or the Red castle. This originally built by the Normans in about 1100AD and following an attack in about 1300, it was abandoned and plundered for its stone. In the late 1800’s, the owner decided to restore it. He used a mixture of recreating the medieval castle with Victorian influences and what we have now is a fascinating look at life in two periods of time.

In the 1950’s the then owner (grandson of the restorer) gifted the castle in the state and now it is open as a tourist spot. We went with Mark and his son Ryan to see the place. The kitchens, cellars, towers and dungeon are all still as it was in medieval times, with Victorian influences seen in the bedroom furnishings.

I have added a couple of photos of this castle.

Alan

 

Date line July 11. Road travel.

 I am writing this from the city of Bath in Somerset. We arrived here last night having driven from South Wales and across the Severn Estuary on one of the largest bridges we have seen. We have now driven some 1200 miles and have had a variety of experiences.  We have managed to lose our way sevral times, but each time we have found it again, either by just going around the roundabout again, or by reprogramming the satnav or by stopping and asking.

One of the hsrdest things to get used to is the presence of traffic lights on roundabouts. Several times now we have accelerated onto a roundabout looking for the correct road off (and we can sometimes have 5 or more choices!) only to have to come to a halt at a red light when we are just at the first of the options. And there can be another light or two before we get to the off-road that we need.

The motorways are really good and it is surprising just how comfortable we are getting at travelling along at 70 mph when everyone else is doing the same (or more!).

The smaller roads are fun. Driving throught the smaller towns and villages, and suburban streets in many of the larger towns means always looking ahead and bring prepared to pull over and stop as there is often only enough room for one vehicle between the cars parked along one side and the footpath on the other side.

We were in North Wales last Monday on a family history trek and got onto a road that was so small that it didn’t have a number. (Roads are either motorways (M roads), major roads (A rosds) or minor roads (B roads).). This one had no number and as we drove along, the hedges on either side pressed in closely. Getting to the village was no problem but on our way out we met a large truck coming in! And as luck would have it, it was right on a corner with another car right behind us.  We managed to negotiate that by carefully backing up and with the judicious use of (polite) hand signals.

But we have found the other drivers to be co-operative and understanding and we have had no issues. We have benn warned that as we get into Cornwall, which is today’s destination, the number of narrow roads will increase, and here they will be even narrower! We will see what we will see!

Alan

 

 

 

A day to remember -July 4.

I guess it was sort fitting that on the day that the folk of the USA stop and acknowledge a part of their history, Gay and I took the chance to remember a part of our (especially Gay’s) family history.

This was to be our last day in the North East and we were deterrmined to see some of Thornaby. It was here, at the Railway station that Gay’s parents had met, back in 1943/1944. Both were in the RAF, he as a member of a flight crew, she was a WAAF. A bunch of flowers on the station platform brought them together and in 1947 they were married in NZ.

Gay was determined to walk that platform, and so we did, in both directions.

We had been told that there was a Spitfire aircraft mounted on a large roundabout in Thornaby and so we set out to find it. By some detective work and a good deal of luck, find it we did. I went to get a photo of it and found a placque mounted near the footpath down out of sight of the road traffic. This showed a map of the present town and superimposed over that was a map of the airfield. It showed that where the airfield had once been, there was now a large commercial and retail centre and two of the former runways were major roads, intersecting at that roundabout. We had found the airfield!

The map also showed a memorial site that had been dedicated in 1997 and so that was our final stop before heading north again to visit more family, and then heading west to Liverpool.

Alan

 

 

Day trip to Whitby

Whitby Abbey, July 3, 2014

As a day off from following the family trail, we decided to go to Whitby just because we can and because everyone says that it is a good place to go for an outing.

We were to travel by train, which meant a jorney of nearly two hours one way, using the local trains in this Noth Eastern sector. We csught the first train from Billingham, changed at Middlesborough and duly arrived in Whitby close the 12 noon. As soon as we emerged from the station, we realised that about half the population of Newcastle had also decided that Whitby was a good place to visit. There were people everywhere!

Making our way through the throngs, and having paid 40p each to use the public toilet, we found a quieter street and a cafe where we could have the traditional fish and chips. When in Whitby, do as everyone does, and have fish and chips! Every cafe had a selection available!

After a large serving, which Gay was unable to finish, we went down to the harbour snd then explored some very narrow streets, called “The Shambles” just as in York. This led us to a vey steep street which rivalled Dunedin’s Baldwin Street for slope if not for length, at the top of which was Whitby Abbey. This a National Trust property is now in ruins, but with enough remaining to show what had been there before King Henry had taken his sledgehammer to all monasteries in the 1500’s.

Exploring this place leaves one gobsmacked as to the time and effort people put into their buildings in those long gone years, creating as they did beauitful structures of magnificent proportions. This abbey had been built on the site of an even earlier monastery, which dated back to about 600AD.

The nearby church of St Mary was the most unusual church I have seen. Originally built in the traditional shape of a cross, later extensions took the north wall out, making more of a rectangular shape, having the effect of leaving the chancel area where the main altar is sort of off-set and therefore even more remote from the people. Inside, the pews were of the box variety, but were facing in different directions, making it a difficult task for any worship leader. In addition, there was a balcony area around the whole church, which would have added to the task of bringing people togrther in any act of cohesive worship!

We had been told that 4 hours would be ample to see the town and surrounds as it was only a small place. Not for us! We raced to get to the statue of Captain Cook and missed the Cook Museum and the Lifeboat Museum, both of which would have been good to see.

We made it back to the train with a few mminutes to spare and returned to Billigham in time go out and make two more family visits. Thank God for long twilight hours!

Alan